Aland archipelago cycling

Approximately mid-way between Finland and Sweden, Aland Isles is Finish territory but the language is Swedish. Aland is, however, an independent region having its own flag (since 1954), postage stamps and culture.

 Mostly flat, Aland is a cycling paradise. Distances between locations are short. We rode on cycleways and quiet roads. Being Finish territory, Aland has EU associations. Currency, therefore, was simple to understand. One Euro dollar was about two NZ dollars.

It was Haruko’s idea to add Aland to our 2008 Nordic bicycle touring schedule. Her Lonely Planet guide, Scandinavian Europe featured Aland. In my Rough Guide, Aland barely got a mention. Additionally, Aland conveniently lay along our route to home. Our booked flights to New Zealand started from Stockholm.

Aland’s inhabited islands – 65 of more than 6000 of them, are joined by bridges or ferries.  The principal centre and port is Mariehamn (pop 11,000). We took the Viking Line ferry from Turku in Finland. It spent an hour in Mariehamn en-route to Stockholm. The ferry going from Stockholm to Turku berths about the same time. We spent four days in Aland, allowing us to experience a sample of islands while taking a circular route from Mariehamn.

Cycling was the preferred way of getting around. Few others were bikepacking as we were. Signage was detailed. We were intrigued by the red surfaces beside trails. Much of Aland features rocky granite with red and pink hues. When a road met the ocean, a ferry was there to take us to the next island. Cyclists were classified as pedestrians so there was no charge.

 We had a small tent so camping was convenient. Camps typically had a store for basics including beer. Occasionally we could buy a simple meal, or fall back on a self-prepared dehyd concoction.

Re Beer, Aland offered a local dark larger. It was something new to us. But it was very good and we voted it the best beer of our Scandinavian travels.

One camp was delightfully in a forest. The camp manager, spotting the small New Zealand flag on my cycling top, surprised me by asking about our famous Olympic mid-distance runner, John Walker. I was able to tell him he was alive and well having recently received knighthood. I had photographed him at a Sportsperson of the Year pre-view function when I was working on the Press.

Being an archipelago, maritime themes were apparent. We spotted model ships suspended in the fifteenth century Saint. Mathew church. They were likely added when the church was rebuilt during the 1970s.

We set out early to catch the final ferry back to Mariehamn, having heard it was smaller and ran infrequently. Others did the same so when we arrived at the end of the road quite a crowd of cyclists was already waiting. When the ferry arrived it was a mere launch. Nevertheless all the bikes were loaded and off we went. Luckily the ocean was calm.

Mariehamn’s uncluttered main street was a dream with ample bars and cafe's with outdoor seating. Cuisine was slanted towards Swedish, meatballs being a favourite.

Mariehamn’s principal attraction was its maritime museum where I was surprised to discover a link to New Zealand in a fine model of the sailing barque, Pamir. The ship had become prize of war during a regular visit to Wellington in 1941. A tweak in European allegiances had made Finland an enemy. Under the New Zealand flag, Pamir made trans-Tasman and around the world voyages. It was crewed jointly by Finish and Kiwi seafarers. Pamir was returned to Finland during an emotional ceremony in Wellington in November 1948. Pamir then sailed to South Australia to join Passat for the last grain race to London. 

Pamir, I realised, had belonged in Aland when owned by Gustar Erikson. Pamir was one of the Flying P liner fleet of the Erikson Line.

Pamir was wrecked in September 1957 during an Atlantic storm. Only five of the 80 crew were rescued. Many of the causalities were sea cadets.

A museum exhibit we could board was the barque, Pommerin. Animated voice-over displays took us on an imaginary round-the world voyage. Flying P Liners were steel-hulled.  They were expensive to purchase and operate. Long voyages were therefore necessary. Hence their involvement in the grain trade from Australia to London.

Next day we, ourselves, went to sea when we rode our bikes onto the Viking Line ferry and headed to Stockholm. Good-bye Aland.