Incomparable Clutha/Mata-Au trails

Arriving at Alexandra’s AL Park View Motel on a sweltering late summer afternoon, mine host Tony Martin is departing for his Wednesday mountain bike ride.  He is typical of those I will meet over the next few days when pedalling 100 km along Roxburgh Gorge and Clutha Gold trails.

Many locals are bike crazy. No wonder with so many great trails nearby.

Roxburgh Gorge Trail is a continuation of the Otago Central Rail Trail. But Roxburgh Gorge, linking Alexandra with Roxburgh hydro dam, has real hills.  Much of it is elevated offering distance views of the trail along with the magic of the swirling turquoise Clutha/ Mata-Au and Lake Roxburgh.

The trail is ridden in two stages –Alexandra to Doctor’s Point (10 km) and Shingle Creek to Roxburgh Dam (12 km). Owing to land access issues, a central 12 km section is made by jet boat. The jet boat costs $95 and is a highlight of the trail.

Heading into Roxburgh Gorge I pass signs ``Ride at your own risk.’’

I recall Tony Martin’s wife, Evelyn, chatting about riding the trail on opening day in October 2013.  

``Tony kept yelling, `ride closer to the bluff. If you fall into the Clutha you will be washed down to Roxburgh Dam in no time.’ ’’

The river is New Zealand’s second longest after the Waikato.

But the 338 km Clutha/Mata-Au, draining Lake Wanaka and flowing into the Pacific at Balclutha, has the greater water flow. It discharges 614 cubic metres every second, placing it amongst the world’s swiftest.

For all that, the Clutha/Mata-Au is visually magnificent rather than menacing. Its Maori name Mata-Au translates, a current or eddy in an expanse of water.

The European name ``Clutha’’ is the Gaelic form of Clyde.

Near the Narrows where the Clutha is its most muscular I pass another cautionary sign.

 ``Walk Bike 300 m.’’

Here the trail is steep, confined and perilously close to the edge.

I wouldn’t risk riding this part but later hear of three undeterred Swiss guys.  They had been recruits in the Swiss Army Bicycle Regiment.

A moderate nor-wester, occasionally bringing a light shower, is propelling me along. Cloud patterns appear as ``sky art.’’

A final challenge is a daunting switch back climbing away from Lake Roxburgh. It eventually levels out and leads to a kiosk at the end/start of Roxburgh Gorge Trail. Had I continued over Roxburgh hydro dam, I would have descended a short distance to start the Clutha Gold Trail, terminating about 80 km further on at Lawrence.

I am met by Rod Peirce, long-time chair of Clutha Gold.

``I’ve got something for you,’’ he says cheerily in greeting. His hand vanishes into a paper bag.

Dreading a can of warm beer, I am delighted to see a large red plum emerge. It is not long from the cool store. ``Juicy buggers, ’’ says Rod as he loads my bike into his car.

Juicy, cool and wonderfully refreshing, I muse. The plumb is ``Fortune.’’ I am introduced to the superb fruit-growing region of Roxburgh Valley.  

Roxburgh people are upbeat about their Clutha Gold Trail.  In the Goldfields Hotel I ask proprietor John Lane for something cold.  He suggests ``water.’’ Having caught me out, he pours a Speights. He enthuses about the future of Clutha Gold. ``Something was needed to stem the exiting young people.’’

Colin Turner at Roxburgh Motels is also a trail convert. He and his wife Joyce are starting to see benefits to their cosy accommodation which they have upgraded to include a facility for cycling groups.

Campervans loaded with bikes cruise Roxburgh’s main street, many heading to the popular 103 The Store café.

Colin gives Rod and myself a lift to Roxburgh Dam and we pedal the first 10 km of Clutha Gold.

Unlike Roxburgh Gorge, Clutha Gold is mostly flat. Rod says, by utilising the Queen’s Chain the trail has been able to meander amongst the willows. He tells me how the trail surface pebbles have been mixed with eight per cent clay to give an excellent riding surface.

I imagine Clutha Gold Trail in late April. It would be truly golden. The river is also associated with precious metal.  Otago’s biggest gold rush began following Gabriel Read’s discovery of gold in the Tuapeka River near Lawrence on 20 May 1861.

``At a place where a kind of road crossed on a shallow bar I shovelled away about two and a half feet of gravel, arrived at a beautiful soft slate and saw the gold shining like the stars in Orion on a dark frosty night,’’ Read wrote of his discovery.

 Hopeful gold seekers arrived from many corners of the world. After year or so the easy gold had been found, prompting miners to move on.

Fearful off economic depression, Dunedin’s Chamber of Commerce invited Chinese to come and pick over the old workings. A steady flow arrived following the spring of 1865. These days’ remnants of their makeshift dwellings are found along the river.

Some are little more than overhanging rock shelters. A chimney was added. Sometimes a window appeared and even a garden. Their self-sufficient lives were exceedingly tough. Gold mining was necessarily performed during harsh winters owing to the lower river level.

I break my ride, overnighting at Miller’s Flat and Beaumont.

A final two hours beyond Beaumont has me riding into Lawrence. I pass signs tempting end of ride spa treatments. But I am running a little late for an appointment at the town’s enticing Wild Walnut Café.