Bruges is in
Belgium
Did you see the brilliant movie In Bruges? Two bit men, having
completed a big job, are ordered to cool their heels in Bruges. It is a crime-comedy
confirming hit men do not make the best tourists. Hence their slogan, ``Shoot
first. Sightsee later.’’ The movie makes excellent use of Bruges settings
including the 15th Century 83 m-high Belfry, an UNESCO World
Heritage site since 2000, the medieval Market Square, Groenungermuseum,
established in the former Fekhurt Abby, fine cathedrals and canals.
The Belfry
It was the
magnificent settings that prompted our detour to Bruges (Flemish spelling is
Brugge). I noticed the rail terminal used the Flemish spelling. Our
accommodation in the West Flanders capital was the agreeable Ibis Budget Hotel
close to the railway station. From there, it was an easy, and pleasant, walk to
the city centre. It is called a city despite a population of barely 118,000. Bruges
is virtually a museum in real time. It also offers the world's most sumptuous
waffles –if shop displays are not deceiving, and chocolates. Chocolate is
modelled in amazing creations including comprehensive sets of tools –spanners,
pliers, nuts and bolts. Even the most intimate of human body parts are
fashioned in chocolate. (I will not share those photos.)
Waffles on show
Belgium beer, of
course, needs no introduction. We made several visits for a pint or two at De
Halve Mann, a brewery since 1856. These days it remains a brewery with added
cafe/restaurant. Our visits were such, we were recognised by the pleasant
staff. Popular brews include Straffe
Hendrik (Strong Henry) and Bruges Fool.
We visited magnificent Cathedrals including Church of our Lady. Amongst
its many treasures is a sculpture Madonna and Child by Michelangelo. I may not
necessarily share the faith the church represents but standing in awe of the
splendid building and its exquisite decorations, I had to admire the faith that
prompted those who constructed Church of our Lady over the 13th and
14th centuries. Its 122 m. brick steeple is one of many Bruges
landmarks.
Church of our Lady
A Bruges visit is not complete without a boat excursion of the
seven-kilometres of canals. The canals are formed from the original Bruges
defence ramparts. Excursions include seeing popular landmarks and being
informed by an excellent live commentary. A feature is a five-tonne blue whale
sculpture made from waste plastic sourced from the ocean.
Evening canal boat trip
The whale appears to be leaping from the canal. Evening is an ideal time
for a canal boat excursion.
The medieval market square is a key attraction. It
is ideally surrounded by cafes and bars. The bar we chose for a pint curiously
had plastic glasses. I asked the barman if the customers get boisterous. ``Only
if they are Irish,’’ he replied. I assumed he was Irish.
Groenungermuseum was entered after beating a trail through the pleasant
Fekhurt Abby grounds. We rushed to get there soon after arriving in Bruges
owing to it being closed the following day, Monday. We were keen to see
paintings utilised in ``In Bruges’’ movie. We found Hieronymus Bosch’s The Last Judgement and Judgement of Cambyses – the judgement
and flaying of the corrupt Persian judge Sisamnes by artist, Gerard David. The
sordid event belongs to the fourth century BC. Belgiums considered it still
relevant in the fifteenth century. The two-panel work was completed in 1498. It
was hung in the Bruges judgement hall as a warning to magistrates to administer
fair judgement without corruption.
Bicycles also identify Bruges. Belgium people love to ride their
bicycles. Citizens commute by bicycle. They meet by bicycle. Age is no deterrent. We also encountered a group on veteran bicycles. Cyclists have traffic
laws running in their favour. Hence, unlike in New Zealand, they are respected
by motorists. One way streets in Bruges are two-way for cyclists. And citizens
make the most of their cycling-friendly environment. Cyclists do, however, face
hefty fines for misdemeanours such as riding without hands, or feet, and using
a mobile phone while cycling. Carrying an adult on a pannier rack is another
serious offence. Wearing helmets is not
compulsory but is recommended. Most don’t bother. I thought I would not want to
come a cropper on those cobble stones if I was not wearing a helmet.
Everything about Bruges, including the September weather, was so
agreeable. Little wonder we decided to stay an extra day.
Stopping for a pint in Market Square
Colourful window box
Looking great.
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