Thursday 24 January 2019



Bruges is in Belgium

Did you see the brilliant movie In Bruges? Two bit men, having completed a big job, are ordered to cool their heels in Bruges. It is a crime-comedy confirming hit men do not make the best tourists. Hence their slogan, ``Shoot first. Sightsee later.’’ The movie makes excellent use of Bruges settings including the 15th Century 83 m-high Belfry, an UNESCO World Heritage site since 2000, the medieval Market Square, Groenungermuseum, established in the former Fekhurt Abby, fine cathedrals and canals.



The Belfry

 It was the magnificent settings that prompted our detour to Bruges (Flemish spelling is Brugge). I noticed the rail terminal used the Flemish spelling. Our accommodation in the West Flanders capital was the agreeable Ibis Budget Hotel close to the railway station. From there, it was an easy, and pleasant, walk to the city centre. It is called a city despite a population of barely 118,000. Bruges is virtually a museum in real time. It also offers the world's most sumptuous waffles –if shop displays are not deceiving, and chocolates. Chocolate is modelled in amazing creations including comprehensive sets of tools –spanners, pliers, nuts and bolts. Even the most intimate of human body parts are fashioned in chocolate. (I will not share those photos.)

Waffles on show

 Belgium beer, of course, needs no introduction. We made several visits for a pint or two at De Halve Mann, a brewery since 1856. These days it remains a brewery with added cafe/restaurant. Our visits were such, we were recognised by the pleasant staff.  Popular brews include Straffe Hendrik (Strong Henry) and Bruges Fool.


                                                           Enjoying Belgium beer

We visited magnificent Cathedrals including Church of our Lady. Amongst its many treasures is a sculpture Madonna and Child by Michelangelo. I may not necessarily share the faith the church represents but standing in awe of the splendid building and its exquisite decorations, I had to admire the faith that prompted those who constructed Church of our Lady over the 13th and 14th centuries. Its 122 m. brick steeple is one of many Bruges landmarks.



Church of our Lady
 A Bruges visit is not complete without a boat excursion of the seven-kilometres of canals. The canals are formed from the original Bruges defence ramparts. Excursions include seeing popular landmarks and being informed by an excellent live commentary. A feature is a five-tonne blue whale sculpture made from waste plastic sourced from the ocean.



                                                      Evening canal boat trip
The whale appears to be leaping from the canal. Evening is an ideal time for a canal boat excursion. 
The medieval market square is a key attraction. It is ideally surrounded by cafes and bars. The bar we chose for a pint curiously had plastic glasses. I asked the barman if the customers get boisterous. ``Only if they are Irish,’’ he replied. I assumed he was Irish.



                                                                   Bruges Market Square
Groenungermuseum was entered after beating a trail through the pleasant Fekhurt Abby grounds. We rushed to get there soon after arriving in Bruges owing to it being closed the following day, Monday. We were keen to see paintings utilised in ``In Bruges’’ movie. We found Hieronymus Bosch’s The Last Judgement and Judgement of Cambyses – the judgement and flaying of the corrupt Persian judge Sisamnes by artist, Gerard David. The sordid event belongs to the fourth century BC. Belgiums considered it still relevant in the fifteenth century. The two-panel work was completed in 1498. It was hung in the Bruges judgement hall as a warning to magistrates to administer fair judgement without corruption.    


                                                           The Last Judgement
Bicycles also identify Bruges. Belgium people love to ride their bicycles. Citizens commute by bicycle. They meet by bicycle. Age is no deterrent. We also encountered a group on veteran bicycles. Cyclists have traffic laws running in their favour. Hence, unlike in New Zealand, they are respected by motorists. One way streets in Bruges are two-way for cyclists. And citizens make the most of their cycling-friendly environment. Cyclists do, however, face hefty fines for misdemeanours such as riding without hands, or feet, and using a mobile phone while cycling. Carrying an adult on a pannier rack is another serious offence. Wearing helmets is not compulsory but is recommended. Most don’t bother. I thought I would not want to come a cropper on those cobble stones if I was not wearing a helmet.



                                                               Cycling for all ages

Everything about Bruges, including the September weather, was so agreeable. Little wonder we decided to stay an extra day.
                                                          Stopping for a pint in Market Square


                                                Colourful window box


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